Local Flavor
To get a taste of regional crafts, comfort foods, and other such meibutsu from all over Japan, head to one of Tokyo’s many antenna shops.
As published in Journal August, 2020
There are certain Japanese cultural exports that can be found almost anywhere. No corners of the developed world are yet untouched by Sanrio, fewer still by Pokémon; shelf-stable treats like Pocky sticks and arare, that savory and spicy rice cracker mix, are pretty standard fare in American corner delis. But within Japan, certain regional specialties are so beloved, and so hard to find, that big cities like Tokyo have dedicated special emporia just for them. They’re called antenna shops, though the name may be a little misleading: They don't sell old-fashioned TV sets with rabbit ears, or any of the sort of old-fashioned tech gadgets we may associate with them today. Instead, these “antennae” operate as Tokyo’s cultural receivers, and the signals come from all of the country’s 47 prefectures, each one with its own distinct identity and flavor.
Antenna shops sell meibutsu, a term which literally translates as “famous thing,” and used to connote a regional specialty good from Japan. Meibutsu refers to everything from decorative objects and tools, to cooking utensils, textiles, and all sorts of household items, but what shoppers tend to crave most of all are comfort foods from particular parts of the country, such as Setouchi lemons from Hiroshima, or sake from Nagano.
Tokyo has more than sixty antenna shops, and nearly half of these can be found in the upscale shopping neighborhoods of Yurakucho and Ginza. There’s no precise equivalent in America, which only adds to their charm and intrigue: Antenna shops are the exact opposite of tourist shops in different regions, where travelers might stock up on treats by which to remember New Orleans or Honolulu.
In Japan, craft traditions are deeply rooted in place. Kyushu has hundreds of furniture-makers, with some firms dating back hundreds of years. Bizen Province, in Okayama prefecture, has a pottery tradition that was established in the 14th century; and Nishijin-ori textiles have roots in the Kyoto region stretching back 1,200 years. The government of Japan invests resources in protecting and cultivating these time-honored industries. For several decades, regional governments have partnered with major department stores to stage special events and displays promoting regional goods, limited-engagement sales that could be considered pop-up antenna shops.
Ginza and Yurakucho are within walking distance of one another, so it’s easy to browse an array of antennae from prefectures near and far. Yurakucho’s Kotsu Kaikan shopping center has a cluster of antenna shops that includes Hokkaido Dosanka Plaza. Hokkaido is a top tourist destination within Japan, and its foods are popular with locals and non-locals alike. Meanwhile, Dosanka Plaza is renowned for its “melon mix” soft-serve ice cream, a swirl of melon and vanilla flavors, as well as seasonal, savory treats like salmon and crab, dried fish, and fresh takoyaki—croquettes made with toothsome chunks of octopus.
Nearby, Mount Fuji Green Tea Plaza features goods from Shizuoka prefecture, which is known for its teas. Here you can find matcha, enjoy matcha-flavored gelato and sweets, and some savory snacks like eel pie. For an additional fee, customers can also take part in a tea ceremony. Like Hokkaido, Osaka is known as a foodie haven in Japan. Osaka Hyakkaten in Yurakucho will beckon visitors with the fragrance of its own regional take on takoyaki, and very popular pork buns. Osaka is also known for kokyu-choco, a dessert that resembles tiramisu, and made with mascarpone, almonds, and a dusting of cocoa powder.
The fashionable Ginza is known as the Rodeo Drive of Tokyo. Some of its antenna shops are as posh as its luxury boutiques, but there are also some casual shops that feel cozy and welcoming. One such place is Ginza Washita Okinawa, which features food and crafts from Okinawa, an subtropical island situated on Japan’s southern coast, very far south of the mainland. Ginza Washita Okinawa offers local snacks and produce, including the island’s famous sata andagi doughnuts, Okinawan noodles, packets of Okinawan black sugar, and ice cream from the local brand Blue Seal. Serious souvenir hunters can also find pretty Yachimun ceramics, and shamisen, the long-necked, three-stringed instrument dating from the Edo period that’s used during performances of Kabuki, folk music, and puppetry.
At Tau Setouchi Hiroshima, you’ll find more than 400 kinds of handmade brushes from Kumano Fude, The Artist Brush Manufacturing Company, who have been making brushes since 1869 and celebrated their sesquicentennial this year. The firm started by manufacturing calligraphy and painting brushes (which they still produce today) and expanded, more recently, into makeup and beauty brushes that are a cult favorite. While there, you can browse the sake shop, and sample the Hiroshima okonomiyaki, a savory pancake made with cabbage, scallions, and pork, and a variety of other ingredients in other regions; its name translates as “whatever you like, grilled.”
Antenna shops are very popular among Tokyo residents, and increasingly so with tourists, which is good news, because they’re wonderful introductions to the material culture and diverse culinary traditions of Japan’s 47 prefectures. Big box stores offer the uncanny experience of encountering identical, industrially made goods wherever you shop, and the products often lack a specific geographic identity or local cultural significance as a result (apart from scant occasional attempts at regional branding). Antenna shops flip this pervasive concept on its head, without forgoing convenience. Instead of connecting millions of consumers with the same mass-market goods far and wide, antenna shops connect people in Japan to different regions of the country they call home, and to an aspect of their country’s culture for which they might feel homesick—or might not yet know well at all. For visitors to Japan, it’s a highly educational and walkable whirlwind. With their tempting displays and delectable treats, antenna shops demonstrate that food and handcrafted objects are vibrantly distinctive from prefecture to prefecture, and something to be shared and celebrated. Even in bustling and international Tokyo, it seems, local flavor is everything.